The Quadrangle

Issue date: 2/23/05 Section: Arts & Entertainment

As a whole, 2005 fall fashion shall provide quite a few options for shoppers. While many collections were similar to the ladylike looks of past seasons, some began to branch out more, and others continued to push the envelope.

Carolina Herrera, a designer originally from Venezuela, showed a collection of carefully tailored and beautifully simplistic designs. The most striking of her collection was a mahogany moiré strapless gown with fluted skirt. The gown was devoid of any unnecessary embellishments, and stood perfectly on its own, showcasing the exquisite tailoring and streamlined design for which Ms. Herrera is best known. As always, she used lush fabrics-lynx fur, a charcoal broadtail dress, and a beautiful, raspberry abstract-print silk. Another striking element of the collection was a royal blue cocktail dress with a slightly flared skirt and tightly fitted top, which was modeled by Dewi Driegen. Herrera did not focus solely on evening wear; her collection also included a slew of elegant tweed hunting suits. Despite the richness of the fabrics, her designs were never flashy, and always portrayed the chic ladylike image for which she is so well known. Makeup and hair for her show were also very simple; the models wore lipstick in soft, creamy pinks and very little eye makeup. Hair was neatly pulled back in loose chignons. Overall, she once again succeeded in achieving a polished, ladylike look, without being boring or frumpy.

Proenza Schouler, a young design duo that had made waves in the fashion world since their arrival. At just 26, the two designers that make up Proenza Schouler, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, have shown more mature, feminine looks, but this season was a bit of a change for the duo. Taking shapes from the more mod styles of the 1960s, and mixing this with more traditional fabrics, such as tweeds, herringbones, and houndstouths. Also coming into the circulation were bustier tops and great coats. The bustiers were layered with silk jersey tanks, cashmere knits, and trim blazers, capes, and coats. In contrast to the more eclectic daytime look, the evening looks were much simpler and pared down, featuring color-blocked silk chiffon gowns with cinched satin belts. Again, makeup was soft, but with heavy liner underneath the bottom lash line. Hair was loose and low.

Oscar de la Renta, known for his consistently luxurious and ornate collections did not disappoint. A veteran of the business, some would fear that he has lost his touch, but this is not the case. He continues to grow and update with the times, and designs for everyone from First Ladies to pop stars and actresses. This season, he opened with an ethnic feel, with belted ikat coats in a motif introduced for spring 2005. Also mixed in were jeweled turtlenecks and embroidered trousers and glen plaid skirts. Evening was, as always, very ornate, and is clearly de la Renta's forte. With the exception of one black cocktail dress, all were elaborate show stopping. Some were lavishly decorated with rhinestones, gold bows, or gold paillettes. Also in the evening mix were carefully tailored racer back columns with a heavy dose of sequins, Empire-lined tulle princess gowns, and a brocade gown that was surely the highlight. Like Herrera, Mr. de la Renta kept make up and hair very simple and soft.

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